The view back downPicture 4 of 15

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 From 13,000 feet -- which was already higher than I'd ever climbed in my life, my previous record being Yosemite's Mount Matterhorn at 12,000-something -- the Hitchcock Lakes, left, and Guitar Lake, right, point back down the valley at the distant forest surrounding Crabtree Meadows, my starting point for the ascent.

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